A day in the life of dohhead

Flaky, feathery cinnamon rolls...With dough scraps.

|Today , with a little time on my hands, I decided to use up some dough remnants, and fashion some healthier cinnamon buns... I wanted a featherier, more tender product, like Danish , but without all of that extra sugar. Xylitol, mixed into the dough, imparts the sweetness that I'm looking for, without the carbs. The dough scraps were bits and pieces of old pie dough, some old croissant scraps, and some spelt laminated dough that I had made a few months ago. In lieu of milk, I also substituted coconut milk, for a little more flavor...3 book folds, and the result was a fragrant combination of buttery, soft, melty and gooey cinnamoney goodness...The rolls were proofed in the resident wine cellar, as it allowed a methodical slow rise, augmenting the already mouth-wateringly good viennoiserie....

 

Chicago deep dish pizza....

Yesterday was my GF's 48th, and for the occasion she indicated that savory , not sweet, was what the doctor ordered... She indicated that the thicker variety of pizza pie, was her preference. Sensing that the usual Friday nite thin crust, just wouldn't cut it, I set out to fashion her a "big'un".  I had made "Timbale", on several occasions. Timbale, are a sort of cake/pie hybrid made of savory ingredients: Pasta, dough, sausage, red sauce, veggies uasually molded in a springform pan, and then baked....The result is a delectable imbroglio of cheesy saucy tomatoey unctiousness...The Chicago pizza pie has similar characteristics...For last nites occasion I used a WW crust, peppers, sauteed Vidalia onions, San Marzano plum tomatoes (drained), crispy pancetta, bocconcini, mozzarelle, havarti and some milk fed fried seasoned ground veal...The crust was parbaked 12 mins @350, cooled, then filled in layers: Cheese first, then sauteed veal, followed by the plum tomatoes, and finally the sauteed peppers andd onions. Each layer should also get a liberal dusting of Romano or Parmigiano to kick up the flavor...35 mins @350, a rest for 15 mins out of the oven, andd ooey-gooey goodness....

Make this for Christmas morning....Seriously.

 
This recipe is one that was provided to me by one of my professors at the CCA.  Chef Jacob Ference.  Chef Jake, as we called him, was a dry-humored , witty, somewhat biased cake "Divo".  He was a master cake maker, and fashioner of all things sweet, moist, buttery and delicious.   This pound cake recipe, he claimed was from a relative that made THE best pound cake.   It is better than original pound cake recipes, in that this one produces a much lighter, moister, more cakey product.  I find , when combined with cinnamon, nutmeg,  the right amount of toasted nuts, and a whole lotta love....You get a wonderful chaser for a bowl of caramel ice cream, or top it with a few dollops of creme fraiche.   Here is the recipe, and just in case you  didn't get a chance to read my post about "Comfort foods, bad weather style".....Some more pound cake porn!    

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8 ozs butter

12ozs sugar 

1 tbsp vanilla

Cream these first 3 ingredients, till fluffy and light. Then add, one at a time, beating for 1 minute per: 

5 whole eggs.

Once the eggs have been absorbed, use a rubber spatula and scrape your bowl. Then add all at once, and mix on slowest speed:

4 ozs sifted cake flour

4 ozs sifted bread flour

1/2 tsp nutmeg

If you don't have these 2 separate flours, All purpose (unbleached) will suffice. NEVER use bleached flour, it is poison, and carries no flavor or nutrients.  I like to then add, in layers, as you spoon batter into your pan:  5 parts white sugar to 1 part cinnamon, and 1 part toasted walnuts by weight.....5:1:1.   A 9" x 2" greased and papered/floured pan will serve quite nicely for this cake.Or you can use a tube/Bundt pan.  Bake at 325F for68-75 minutes , depending on your oven.  Cake is done when a toothpick inserted comes out clean. If you want to make a really spectacular pound cake, double this recipe and use a 10" pan that is 3" deep.  The baking time will be lengthened, and you will need to turn your oven down to 300F after 20 minutes. You might even need to cover the cake for the last part of the baking cycle, so as to not overbrown it.  It's worth the extra time, the cake is DEEP and DELICIOUS!  The combination of butter,cinnamon, and baking cakiness is almost too much to stand!   Happy caking!  

 

A repost from December 2010....Make this for Christmas!!!

This is the stretch of  my work week that puts me in the office for more hours, than I am at home....Some would call this obsession,  some a  mania.....Perhaps they would be correct on all counts.   I  call it   just  gettin 'er done, to quote a redneck.    As  we are  just days from  Christmas,  (yes, not xmas, or the season for greetings, or the holiday season)............But  CHRISTMAS,   I had  to make some holiday  Christmas cake......Italian style.     If you have ever perused my archives,  I made this recipe back in the month of July,  on a whim.  The result was favorable,  and as this is an Italian bakery.....I cannot go wrong.   The catch is Italian companies, overseas, have long been shipping their "Dolce di Natale", for years.   The Panettone is no longer a novelty, as virtually every  grocery store carries a plethora of this tasty cake,  in a variety of flavors.   I  do know for a fact however, that there are very FEW bakeries that even attempt this baked good:   The process is a long one,  and  requires  time , effort and space.      The rewards are worth it though.....One is rewarded  with  a fragrant   imbroglio of butter, eggs, citrus and dried fruit.......MMMMMMMMM!    I will lead you thru the mixing and baking process  until fruition.  Here goes:  The  dough is being handled this evening, by our friend Mr Eberhardt, he is more gentle than Mr Hobart.  The dough has been mixed till just shaggy, and I have added the soaked raisins,  the candied fruit and the booze (brandy).  In the next 2 clips....Notice how the mass  has changed in consistency, as the gluten  develops.  This is a dough that will  increase about 4-5 times  as it proofs and finally, bakes off.....It is remarkable.  Thus , we want to adequately mix, as the  final product has to be able to handle all the enrichments, and the added  fruit.  Download PC120013 Download PC120014   Now that was today's lesson in dough development.   I decided to put the bowl of dough in the proofbox  for one hour.   Anybody that knows me,  knows I HATE using the proofbox:  It's cheating.   The proofbox, steambox, proofer ....Whatever, is used to speed up the fermentation process.  The result is a LESS flavorful product.   Today, because my dough had two kinds of starters, or preferments:  A naturally yeasted  LEVAIN,  and  some  CROISSANT trim,  I decided,  in the interest of  expediency, I would help the process a tad. So, while the box was doing its work, I set about multi-tasking:   Some puff dough,   for turnovers and palmiers:   I also had to make some cream cheese/citrus  frosting for some kickass carrot cake I made earlier:     Cream cheese, butter, icing sugar, orange/lemon emulsion, vanilla   and lemon juice. But first, a FRITATTA break!  OK,  while we were daydreaming, the elves magically divided my Panettone dough, placed the pieces in  recycled  tomato cans, and popped them  in the oven.  Because the units weigh  a  kilo, or more each,  the tops  tend to brown pematurely.....Thus , a  parchment cap is mandatory... Here are the beauties, after a good cool-down and a dusting with some confectioners sugar:  I could just devour one, like now:   Our carrot cake has been iced and garnished with some toasted walnut pieces, and flaked coconut... Finally, a few random images of  stuff that  "gotter did!"   Hope to see you at:  Pain et Délices Luigi
1276 Dollard
LASALLE QC H8N 2P2
Tel: 514-363-8776

Sunday din-din in dohhead kitchen stadium...

I like Sundays.  Not because I am particularly devout, or sing in the choir, or have to spend all day in the lazyboy while Aaron Rodgers passes for 4 touchdowns, and runs for another......But because I get to cook the family dinner.  Thanks to all my little foodnik fans, I have often taken to digitally capturing the Sunday evening meal...My auntie Eleanor, who is a wonderful cook with an adventurous spirit, is omni present:  Either as a peer, when we do dinner at her place, or front and center in the bleachers when Mum entertains....This week's menu: Roasted stuffed pheasant, wild mushroom and cheese bread pudding, stuffed hickory grilled pork loin, and Whipped sweet potatoes.....Fall fare, at its best, yes? Here are the pics from the 2 hours or so I spent doing what I love, FOR those that I love....

 

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 Here she is prior to roasting...Before and after getting dressed...I think I like the pancetta lingerie, gives my imagination wings!

 The seasoned pork roasts, awaiting a hot Barbq, for their searing prior to panning...

 

 

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 The visual process for the wild mushroom bread pudding......Sauteeing pancetta, celery,shallots,wild dry mushroom mix, the water from the soaked mushrooms.....Cooled then added to some milk, eggs,salt and pepper, parika, garlic and onion powder and 3 kinds of cheese (your choice). The mixture is then poured over stale or dry bread, and allowed to soak for 1 hour or so.

 

 

 

 

 

   After searing, the roasts are placed in foil pans to cook for 30 minutes or so, on Medium low, with some hickory chips smoldering seductively in the background....Yeah baby, you know what I like...

Sweet baby Jane....Ain't you a sight for sore eyes, on your back with your.......Oops, sorry! The finished pheasant, 500 degrees for 15 minutes, remove Pancetta, 25 -30 minutes more, and she's good to go!

My finished pork loin roasts.....Smelling of hickory, and pork, and artichoke/citrus filling and just a hint of char on the outside.MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM!!!

Here's a shot of the 3 playing very nicely together...

 

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 Time to make the Gastrique; A sauce made with flavored vinegar, and an equal amount of sugar. To this I added chicken stock, salt a pepper to taste, and fresh raspberries. The sauce is strained, to remove all the pan cling-ons, and then pureed to break up the berries. The result is a sweet and sour ambrosia, that will coat your mouth with pure oral ecstasy! Fruit, meat juices, depth of flavor that will surprise you...

If in Guelph, Bouffay stayle is usually "de rigeur".  The pheasant presented with the roasted pork loin in the foreground.....The gastrique is napped onto the pieces of pheasant, just a bit is all that is needed....

The bread pudding was moist, and mushroomy, and cheesey with a hint of thyme.....The orange slices had a definite aroma and flavor all their own after having kept hydrated, our lovely bird of the day!

One last loving ogle at tonight's fare: Eat up my little foodniks, till next time.....

 

You're serving what for your dinner guests?

Mom likes to have folks over for dinner. With dad the way he has become, adult conversation, from caring neighbors, is almost a necessity. Friday's are the day when most neighbors are available to break bread, or share a meal and some stimulating banter. On Wednesday, rather than ask her son if he would mind making dinner for her guests, she arbitrarily declared: " Now I've bought meatballs from Costco, and some Newman's spaghetti sauce....We'll just make some macaroni and meatballs, what should we have for dessert, ice cream?"  I didn't know how to respond to her declaration/query/rant....Rather than rehash the conversation, which began with "For goodness sakes Ma.....", I'll fill you in on how I tweaked dinner into something pretty tasty.   "PASTA AL FORNO" is supreme Italian comfort food...Nothing else matters.
First, the Newman's own "sockarooni" sauce, was combined   with some plain tomato sauce, and to it was added: White wine, garlic, pepper, paprika and some pork stock. Next the precooked Costco meat balls, found themselves doused and immersed in the mix. The sauce/meatball mixture simmered for about 2 hours. The pasta (whole wheat), was par-cooked, and combined with the simmered sauce mixture, some grated 4 cheese blend, and a little sour cream. This was then poured into a pyrex baking dish, gratineed with some more of the 4 cheese blend, and baked covered @ 350F , for 30 minutes, another 10 minutes uncovered, to caramelize  the cheese topping.  I had used up some capers, garlic and white wine added to some butter and made a "beurre composee".
 Very tasty with the WW/OAT dinner buns I baked at lunchtime.  For the finale, a "Splenda-ized" peach cobbler, using them "Abe Epp" Ontarier peaches that are so juicy, they wet yer forearms when you bite in!!
 I also made a little creme fraiche to cut the sweetness of the cobbler,  as a nice alternative to ice cream...The warm chicken/mushroom/apple and whole lot more salad that our neighbors brought was a meal in itself, and a myriad of tastes, textures, and temperatures....Delish with just a balsamic/olive oil vinaigrette...
So, (burp), this is how it went down in the village by the Arboretum, on this friday nite in September, ayup...I took some photos of Mum's roses.....I particularly like this life and death pair, that sat side by side watching the sun set......

 

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Easy cinnamon rolls, for Annie....

 

This post is for Anne Wolitarsky-Evans,  an old  friend, and first kin   to my brother in law, a-yup.  Annie, I am   "dumbing" this  down a bit, so that the kids can partipate, OK?  Here is     the base recipe:

 

  Cinnamon rolls,  with sticky bun variation. 

       In    the bowl of your stand mixer,  combine the following:

 

1. 1  KG (2 lbs,3ozs)  - Unbleached bread flour
2. 500g (1lb 2 ozs)- Buttermilk, at room temp
3. 2 eggs
4. 100g (3.5ozs) soft butter, unsalted.
5. 15g (1/2oz) salt
6. 120g (4ozs) sugar
7. 28g (1 oz) cake yeast, or 2 packages active dry yeast, or 1 package instant yeast (fast acting). 
8. 1 tsp vanilla, not artificial crap: Vanillin.  
9. Zest of 1 orange.

If using cake  yeast, sprinkle   it on top of    spinning dough hook. If using instant yeast, mix in with your flour. If using active dry yeast, heat 2ozs of buttermilk in microwave for 30 seconds, and sprinkle yeast over liquid, stir  and allow  to hydrate for 3 minutes.

Add the dries  to the bowl, stir briefly, then pour milk ,vanilla and eggs into bowl. Add butter in pieces, allowing     for it to become absorbed by  dough. Once butter has been absorbed, mix till  dough is smooth and elastic, and can be stretched thin  enough, to see  your finger thru it. Allow  to rise (proof) till doubled. Place on a sheet pan, flatten out, cover with   plastic, and chill for 1 hour. Then, make up as follows:  Blend:  4ozs soft butter, 4 ozs  brown sugar, and 2 ozs   corn syrup. Cream till fluffy. Spread on  the bottom of your pan, or molds.  OR, for regular  cinnamon rolls, mix 4 parts sugar: to 1 part cinnamon, and sprinkle on    rolled out dough, after you have brushed it with melted butter.... 

 In  the  last   photo,   what  doesn't end up  as  a strudel,   becomes  sweet  rolls,   cinnamon  or  chocolate .   I  recycle   cake   crumbs,   cookie crumbs,  nuts.......It's   all   good.   What's  good for da filling......Is  good  for  da  pastry.  

 

   Good luck Annie, and as the French chef is always heard  to echo, "Appy Bekkeeng!"

A Korovai for Yuliya....

About 6 weeks  ago, a young man  came into the bakery.  He was well dressed, and   had a pleasant demeanor.  He had a query:   Could I make a Ukrainian wedding bread for his fiancee?  Now, I am not the fount of all yeasted consumables, and don't profess  to know all there is to know , about all things baked so.....I was intrigued.  "Bring me a  photo", I asked, "and I'll make it for you".  A couple of hours  later, the same pleasant demeanored gentleman returned  with an equally pleasant demanored and pleasant looking woman who told me her name was "Yuliya", and produced a very interesting looking photo of a baked yummy  called a "Korovai".   "Could I make this?" she asked.  I responded   that   I would be happy  to do it.  The couple returned a couple of weeks later, and I produced a sample of what the bread would TASTE like. It was met with approval, and we confirmed the pickup for August 19, a day before the big day.   It was a joy to make, as I had never undertaken one such as this before, and I hope to make  many more in the future.....Here  is the recipe, and the photos of the process, as well as the finished result.  All told, I was quite happy  with my first KOROVAI!

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I made a starter the day before....For flavor, along with the other ingredients....

 

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 The finished , shaped dough...In the pan, with a parchment collar.

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 The decorations:  A pair of doves, a pair of intertwined hearts, and a couple of daisies, or sunflowers...

 

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The finished product, it smelled wonderful!

 

 

 

 

Summermoon inspired dark rye....My new favorite

To quote their motto:  "The wood makes it good",  certainly  makes a difference to this bread warrior!    The flavor of this dark rye, I feel is only enhanced by the best coffee  I've had yet.   I had decided to make some rye, as my supply had run low.  I don't make it more than once a week, as it is an acquired taste, that few seem to have acquired......Here anyway.  That being said, I  knew I wanted a rye with a nice coffee and cocoa , yes cocoa.....Base.   My insanity is twofold:   Both provide intense  color, and add a nice little "Je ne sais quoi" taste soupcon , that one can't seem to put their finger on.  I also added 6 eggs to this recipe.....Something I don't usually do, because I always think of eggs for Danish, or Challah or Brioche......Not a dark rye.   The eggs do however add STRUCTURE.  When your loaf is upwards of 80%  rye flour,  extra structure is a good thing.....Here is the recipe I used for this fragrant, sour rye, made with my new coffee obsession!! 

 

              SUMMERMOON COFFEE ROASTER'S inspired 85%  dark  rye bread

 

40 ozs (1,200g),  rye sour starter...See my starter recipe, and use rye flour, not white.

 

91 ozs dark rye flour

17.5 ozs vital wheat gluten

2.8 ozs sea salt

3/4 oz fresh yeast

6 large eggs

60 ozs warm (90F)  filtered water

3 ozs good quality unsweetened cocoa, (Ghirardelli will do just fine)

5 ozs strongly brewed dark roast coffee,

basically a quadruple shot of Summermoon: Inferno roast.  If you haven't yet purchased some Summermoon coffee, any old french/espresso will do, but trust me to really enjoy your loaf afterwards......The one to sip it with, only the Summermoon will do!

 

 

                                                           METHODOLOGY

 

I was taught when making a rye dough, it should generally be a warm dough...Thus the warm water in the recipe. I like to dissolve the rye starter in the  water along with the  salt, cocoa, coffee and eggs.  I then add my flour all at once, along with the vital wheat gluten. I begin mixing and then toss the crumbled yeast on top.  This  dough will LOOK too sticky, at first, but  have faith.....It does come together.  You may need to adjust the water content, depending on the dryness/hydration of your flour.   What you want is a very tacky, but elastic dough.  The wheat gluten allows  for proper development, whilst allowing such a large precentage of rye flour to be used.  The eggs in the dough were a pleasant surprise, as the loaves were indeed  perky and rounded. Mist with pan spray and allow to ferment  45 minutes, degas (punch down), ferment another 45 minutes....then divide into 2.2 lb loaves. Either round them, or shape batards.  Proof again until the dimple that your finger makes in the loaf, comes back slowly.   Bake at 360f  with lots of steam for 30-40 minutes, depending on your oven.  Internal temp should be 200-210.  Here  are the money shots, on my breadboard at 0200 in the AM.

 

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Spread this with:   Soft chevre,  some Havarti,  Mortadella and a little marinated eggplant.....WHOOOOOOOOAAAAAAHHHHHHH!!

Friday frittata...

Friday frittata:   Egg whites, egg substitute, grated Edam, Gouda and soft chevre. A little paprika,garlic powder,onion powder, cayenne, basil,  salt and cracked black pepper.  Hot pan, pour in mixture, turn heat to low, sprinkle grated cheese on top, add chopped, cooked bangers.....Cover and cook till set.  Serve with homemade  buttered toast, and some Summermoon inferno, french roast...OMG!